Nderlyse to Theth — Your First Steps on the Peaks of the Balkans Trail
The first day on the Peaks of the Balkans trail is unlike any other day on the route. There are no brutal climbs, no exposed passes, no hours of rocky scrambling. Instead, Stage 1 eases you gently into one of Europe’s most spectacular long-distance trails with a walk that is as beautiful as it is forgiving. It is the perfect introduction — enough to give you a real taste of the Accursed Mountains, not enough to exhaust you before the adventure has properly begun.
Stage Facts
| Distance | Ascent | Descent | Time | Difficulté |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 11.5 km | 266 m | 435 m | 4–5 hours | Facile |
Where You Start: Nderlyse
Nderlyse is a small, quiet hamlet sitting at the foot of the Albanian Alps, reached by a transfer from Shkodër on the morning of your first hiking day. The village sits alongside the Shala River, one of the cleanest and most pristine rivers in Europe, whose turquoise waters have carved a series of natural pools, waterfalls, and rock formations into the riverbed over thousands of years. These formations — locals call them the Blue Eye — are worth exploring before you set off. They are the first sign that the natural world in this part of Albania operates on a different scale.
The village of Nderlyse is Roman Catholic, as is Theth, and the remains of the small Saint Veneranda Church are still visible here. Locals still gather at the site every 25th of July to celebrate the saint — a tradition that has continued for generations despite everything the 20th century brought to this region.
The Walk
From Nderlyse, the trail follows the valley of the Shala River southward toward Theth. The path is well marked and the terrain is gentle — a mix of forest tracks, riverside paths, and open meadow. The ascent is gradual and the descent is smooth, making this the most accessible day on the entire trail.
The river accompanies you for much of the walk, its sound a constant companion through the beech and oak forest. In June, the valley is at its most vivid — the trees are fully leafed, wildflowers fill the meadow edges, and the river runs full and fast with snowmelt from the passes above.
As you approach Theth, the valley opens and the famous rocky peaks of the Albanian Alps come into view for the first time. The sight of those jagged summits framing the valley ahead is one of the great first impressions in European hiking. You will understand immediately why this trail has been compared to the Swiss Alps — and why, for those who have done both, the Peaks of the Balkans feels more raw, more real, and more alive.
Where You Arrive: Theth
Theth is the most well-known village on the Peaks of the Balkans trail and for good reason. Set in a wide green valley at around 750 metres, surrounded on all sides by peaks reaching above 2,000 metres, it is one of the most dramatically situated villages in Europe. The village has a small stone church, a watermill, a cold-water pool formed by a waterfall just outside the village, and the famous Lock Tower — Kulla e Ngujimit — which served as a self-imposed prison for men sought out for revenge killings under the Kanun, the ancient Albanian code of law that governed life in these mountains for centuries.
Theth has the best developed guesthouse infrastructure on the entire trail. You will find clean comfortable rooms, hot showers, and generous home-cooked meals. After your first day of walking, this is exactly what you need. The evening in Theth — sitting outside a guesthouse with the peaks turning pink in the last light — is one of those moments that stays with you long after the trail is over.
Practical Information for Stage 1
- Start point: Nderlyse village, reached by transfer from Shkodër
- Point final : Le village de Theth
- Eau : The Shala River runs alongside the trail and the water is clean. Guesthouses in Theth provide drinking water.
- Signal mobile : Limited in the valley. Download your Traces GPS before leaving Shkodër.
- What to bring: This is your easiest day so use it to settle into your rhythm. Wear your boots in properly, adjust your pack straps, and walk at a comfortable pace. Do not rush — the views deserve your full attention.
- Guesthouses in Theth: Several family-run guesthouses are available. If you are on a guided tour with Aventure naturelle dans les Balkans, accommodation is pre-booked and included.
Cultural Note: The Kanun and the Lock Tower
The Lock Tower in Theth is one of the most powerful and thought-provoking historical sites on the entire trail. Under the Kanun — the traditional Albanian code of honour that governed life in the northern highlands for centuries — a man who had committed a killing was obliged to seek refuge in the tower while negotiations took place between families. The tower protected him from revenge while the community worked toward resolution. It is a reminder that these mountains were not only wild in their landscape but in their social order too — a world apart from the rest of Europe, shaped by its own laws and its own fierce sense of justice.
The Kanun is the subject of Ismail Kadare’s novel Broken April, which is set in these mountains and is one of the most recommended readings before doing this trail.
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