For many trail runners, Chamonix is synonymous with world-class ultra-running and the legendary Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc. Yet for those seeking a similar challenge with an added touch of authenticity and warmth, there’s a hidden gem waiting in the heart of the Balkans. Kosovo’s own Ilir Zhegrova, a seasoned ultra-runner, calls the Peaks of the Balkans “Chamonix with a smile” – a testament to the trail’s wild beauty and the genuine hospitality of the region.

The Peaks of the Balkans is a 192-kilometer circuit that winds through Albania, Kosovo, and Montenegro. Unlike the highly commercialized routes of the Alps, this trail offers an experience that is both raw and intimate. In a recent interview, Ilir described the appeal of the trail as not just about the physical challenge but also about the journey and the human connections made along the way.

9800 meters of ascend

“Many trail runners seek new challenges beyond the traditional hiking experience. Here, the trail pushes you to explore and test your limits,” Ilir explained, emphasizing that the trail isn’t just a race—it’s a profound adventure. With nearly 9,800 meters of elevation gain, rugged terrains, and stretches where self-sufficiency is a must, the Peaks of the Balkans truly demands respect from those who dare to conquer it.

Preparation is key, Ilir noted. The trail is not for the faint-hearted. “The best way to prepare is to train on similar terrain, with steep climbs and rough descents,” he advised. He stressed that runners must build strength in both their legs and core. Ilir recalled his own experience, saying that even for elite runners, there are parts of the trail where “power hiking” becomes necessary. Training for a 50K ultra with at least 3,000 meters of ascent, he suggests, lays a solid foundation for this grueling route.

Gear is another crucial factor. According to Ilir, having the right equipment can make all the difference. He recommends trail running shoes with exceptional grip for rocky and uneven surfaces, and even suggests using running poles on the more demanding ascents and descents. Hydration is vital on a route that spans multiple countries and remote areas—runners should carry a hydration system that can store at least two liters of water, along with energy bars, gels, and salt tablets to keep the body fueled.

Navigation can be a chellenge

Navigation can also be a challenge in this region. “Some sections of the trail have minimal signage,” Ilir mentioned, urging runners to carry a reliable GPS device or offline maps. Familiarizing oneself with the route in advance can help avoid unexpected detours, and sometimes local guides prove invaluable in shedding light on the trail’s nuances.

One of the most appealing aspects of the Peaks of the Balkans, however, is its blend of physical challenge and cultural richness. As Ilir described, running this trail is not just about the athletic achievement but also about experiencing the unique lifestyle of the Balkans. Along the route, runners pass through small villages where hospitality is a way of life. In these communities, you’re not simply a runner—you’re a guest. Traditional meals, warm conversations, and even invitations to share local customs transform the grueling run into a memorable cultural exchange.

Ilir highlighted some of the most spectacular sections of the trail. For instance, the climb from Qafa e Pejës in Kosovo to Theth in Albania is renowned for its dramatic alpine views, while the segment between Babino Polje in Montenegro and Valbona in Albania is celebrated for its high-altitude ridge running under stunning sunrise skies. Another favorite is the crossing from Dobërdol in Albania to Milishevc in Kosovo, where the sweeping vistas across three countries leave an indelible mark on every runner.

Timing is essential for tackling the Peaks of the Balkans. Ilir advises that the best period to run the trail is between June and September, (When to go) when the weather is most stable and mountain passes are clear. Although July and August offer the challenge of hot temperatures, early June or mid-September may provide a quieter experience with cooler conditions.

We will; be there with few improvements

In Ilir’s view, the Peaks of the Balkans is poised to become a significant ultra-trail destination. With improvements like better trail markings and designated checkpoints for hydration and nutrition, the region could rival even the most established races in Europe. But even as it stands today, the trail offers an experience that’s as much about the journey and the people as it is about the finish line.

For runners ready to trade the crowded trails of Chamonix for an adventure that combines raw mountain terrain with genuine Balkan warmth, the Peaks of the Balkans awaits. It’s not just a race—it’s an unforgettable story waiting to be written, one step at a time.

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We are excited to announce the launch of our new Dutch-language website, peaksofthebalkans.nl. This new platform is dedicated to helping Dutch-speaking adventurers easily access all the essential information they need about the breathtaking Peaks of the Balkans trail.

Why a Dutch Website?

The Peaks of the Balkans trail has captured the hearts of hikers worldwide. To meet the growing interest from Dutch-speaking travelers, we created this platform to make it easier for them to plan and experience this unique journey.

Our website is tailored to provide detailed trail guides, practical tips, and cultural insights to help you prepare for an unforgettable adventure.

What You\u2019ll Find on Peaksofthebalkans.nl

Our Dutch website includes:

• Trail Guides: Detailed descriptions and tips for every stage of the trail, ensuring you are well-prepared for each step of the journey.
• Practical Advice: Information on permits, border crossings, accommodation, and the gear youll need.
• Cultural Highlights: Learn about the rich traditions, cuisine, and history of the Balkans as you plan your trip.
• Sustainability Tips: Guidance on responsible travel to support local communities and preserve the natural beauty of the region.

Visit Today

Ready to plan your next adventure? Visit peaksofthebalkans.nl today and take the first step toward exploring one of Europe\u2019s most stunning hiking trails.

The post Discover the Peaks of the Balkans in Dutch: A New Way to Explore Adventure appeared first on Peaks of the Balkans, Trail, Hiking Tours.

We are thrilled to announce the launch of our new website, peaksofthebalkans.nl, dedicated to providing Dutch-speaking adventurers with information about the Peaks of the Balkans trail. With this platform tailored specifically for the Dutch-speaking community, we aim to make exploring this unique trail easier and more accessible.

Why a Dutch Website?

The launch of peaksofthebalkans.nl is an exciting step for us. Many Dutch-speaking travelers value sustainability, adventure, and cultural exploration. By offering a website in Dutch, we’re helping to make planning and experiencing this extraordinary journey more straightforward.

The new website provides essential information to plan your trek, from detailed route descriptions to advice on permits, accommodation, and transportation. We’ve also included tips on sustainable travel and connecting with local communities.

What You’ll Find on Peaksofthebalkans.nl

Our Dutch website includes all the key resources you need:

• Trail Guides: Explore each stage of the trail with maps, tips, and detailed descriptions. Whether starting in Theth, Valbona, or Plav, you’ll find the guidance you need.

• Practical Information: Learn about permits, border crossings, recommended gear, and how to prepare for the challenges of hiking in this remote region.

• Cultural Insights: Discover the traditions, history, and cuisine of the Balkans, from local guesthouses to specialties like flija and rakija.

• Travel Resources: Recommendations for travel agencies, guides, and local experts who can help you plan your trip.

• Sustainability Tips: Advice on trekking responsibly, supporting local communities, and minimizing environmental impact.

Join Us on This Journey

As we launch peaksofthebalkans.nl, we invite you to explore the site and start planning your journey. Whether you’re seeking a solo adventure, a family hiking trip, or a group expedition, you’ll find inspiration and resources to guide you.

Visit Today

Ready to start planning your adventure? Visit peaksofthebalkans.nl today and discover how the Peaks of the Balkans trail can become your next unforgettable journey. We look forward to sharing this remarkable experience with you.

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Balkan Natural Adventure has a tour called Peaks of the Balkans in Winter and the Austrian company Pure Mountain offers this trail to skiers in winter. The trail is shorter but it goes through the best parts of the mountain that can be used for skiing. The British newspaper The Guardian has published a feature from the hike, read here.

However, the full trail during the winter season, the Peaks of the Balkans trail presents a challenging endeavor. Harsh winter weather conditions in these remote mountains, ranging from 1000 to 2600 meters in altitude, pose the initial challenge. Additionally, the closure of guesthouses in these areas due to little interest and difficulty in operation without winter infrastructure adds to the challenge. With the opening of ski possibilities in the Peaks of the Balkans the company bnadventure.com has managed to have some of the guesthouses open.

These were obstacles in the past, and most of them are still now but some things have changed, since 2019 when we wrote the first post on this subject in this blog. 

What is feasible in winter in 2023 and onwards?

Ski enthusiasts, adventurous entrepreneurs, and mountaineers have explored and made some sections skiable, walkable, and visitable even in the middle of winter. Trails and sections are becoming increasingly popular among enthusiasts. Xavier Carrard from the Swiss mountaineering cooperative Helyum and Shams Eybert-Berard, a French guide from Grenoble, have already skied some parts of the trail. Guest House Leonardi has winterized some rooms, while Guest House Gacaferri has started specializing in welcoming winter tours.

The local company Balkan Natural Adventure, a leader in ski touring in the Balkans, has already organized some trails for their clients.

There is no exact trail that is in circulation as skiers are researching the best parts for the snow. However, sections with the most potential are those located close to the borderlines between Decani and Peja mountains (Kosovo), Babino Polje and Bogicevica (Montenegro), and Doberdol and Sylbica valleys (Albania). These sections of the Peaks of the Balkans trail are rich with long, moderate slopes full of snow which lasts until the beginning of May. With the condition comes the offer; it is the guesthouses in these parts that offer winter accommodation.

In difference in 2019 when we took the first shot at this possible winter trail Doberdol was unimaginable as the guest houses were not winterised and Gacaferri Guest house did not exist. 

For wilderness hunters, the years 2024 and 2025 offer the best possibilities to experience something unique. A bit later may also work; however, with the growth of tourism by about 10 percent a year, if you prefer the wild, you should act quickly.

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Peaks of the Balkans is a renowned summer trail that, after being featured in travel pages such as The New York Times, Financial Times in the US and Europe, and the Singapore Times in Asia, has become a popular destination for many hikers. Once the snow clears, and sometimes even earlier, until the days shorten, hikers from all over the world flock to these trails. However, there is always the question: what about the Peaks of the Balkans in winter?

The Peaks of the Balkans trail during the winter season presents a challenging endeavor. Harsh winter weather conditions in these remote mountains, ranging from 1000 to 2600 meters in altitude, pose the initial challenge. Additionally, the closure of guesthouses in these areas due to little interest and difficulty in operation without winter infrastructure adds to the challenge.

Moreover, the trail distances of 12 to 20 km, traversing rough terrains, may pose avalanche risks. To this, one should add the fact that some of these trials have never been analyzed from this perspective. The lack of phone reception further complicates the challenge of a 192 km trail.

These were obstacles in the past, and most of them are still now but some things have changed, since 2019 when we wrote the first post on this subject in this blog. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

What is feasible in winter in 2023 and onwards?

Ski enthusiasts, adventurous entrepreneurs, and mountaineers have explored and made some sections skiable, walkable, and visitable even in the middle of winter. Trails and sections are becoming increasingly popular among enthusiasts. Xavier Carrard from the Swiss mountaineering cooperative Helyum and Shams Eybert-Berard, a French guide from Grenoble, have already skied some parts of the trail. Guest House Leonardi has winterized some rooms, while Guest House Gacaferri has started specializing in welcoming winter tours.

The local company Balkan Natural Adventure, a leader in ski touring in the Balkans, has already organized some trails for their clients.

There is no exact trail that is in circulation as skiers are researching the best parts for the snow. However, sections with the most potential are those located close to the borderlines between Decani and Peja mountains (Kosovo), Babino Polje and Bogicevica (Montenegro), and Doberdol and Sylbica valleys (Albania). These sections of the Peaks of the Balkans trail are rich with long, moderate slopes full of snow which lasts until the beginning of May. With the condition comes the offer; it is the guesthouses in these parts that offer winter accommodation.

Difference in 2019 when we took the first shot at this possible winter trail Doberdol was unimagginable as the guest houses were not winterized and Gacaferri Guest house did not exist. 

For wilderness hunters, the years 2024 and 2025 offer the best possibilities to experience something unique. A bit later may also work; however, with the growth of tourism by about 10 percent a year, if you prefer the wild, you should act quickly.

For catski tours in the accursed mountains click here

The post Peaks of the Balkans Tour in the Winter Season, update 2024 appeared first on Peaks of the Balkans, Trail, Hiking Tours.

Ivan: Years ago during 5 consecutive summer seasons I went to the Alps and I climbed 18 summits there including Montblanc, Dufourspitze, Bernina, Grossglockner, Finsteraarhorn, Dom du Mischabel, etc. I have also been to Pico del Teide on the Canary Islands. But for the last 12 years, I have been exploring all the Balkan mountains and the whole Balkan peninsula not only in terms of mountains but as a cultural, human, historical, religious, and ethnographical phenomenon.

Question: How do the Accursed Mountains, the “Prokletia” compare to the other mountains that you visited?

Ivan: The answer is simple – out of comparison.

Question: What is so special about these mountains?

Ivan: I really don’t know, but I think it was love at first sight. Even before I saw them, I had seen only the name on the map and I said to myself “that’s it”. And I wasn’t wrong.

Virtyt: So who gave the name?

Ivan: I think the name was given by the local population. During Turkish times there were not only Albanians living in present-day Albania, Kosovo, and Montenegro but also Slavic speaking population whomever one may name them today – Serbs, Montenegrins, or Bosniaks. Gusinje for example as stated by Ami Boue, the first foreign scientist who crossed Prokletia, was one of the most dangerous towns in the Ottoman empire and it was inhabited by a lot of refugees and criminals who escaped blood feuds or criminal persecution of the official authorities. So this town which was the gate of the main old caravan route in Prokletia was inhabited by Boshnjaks (Bosnians), Serbs, and Albanians both Muslims and Catholics. So to me, it is a name given collectively but each ethnic group used its own language. That’s why it is Bjeshket e Nemuna in Albanian, Prokletije in Serbian, and even Prokletia in Bulgarian.

Virtyt: So do you think the name comes from Gusinje which was a dangerous place and because of this gave the name for whole mountains?

Ivan: No, to me the name and the origin of the name is first in terms of physical geography: difficult terrain, lack of water, and frightening sights. If you walk from Gusinje to Theth which is the above-mentioned old caravan route from Peja to Shkodra you can see all the way vertical rugged limestone summits. But in the terms of social anthropology definitely, the name comes from the harsh social rules of the local population, mainly Albanians. I mean Kanun of Lekë Dukagjin as their pure example with its permanent “gjakmarrja” (blood feud) and all these harsh rules which had come to life because of the harsh and poor conditions of living.

Virtyt: A lot of people who walk in these mountains point to diversity as one of the key wealth of these mountains because they are not as big Himalayans and then in a short distance they offer different terrain and different views. What is your opinion on this?

Ivan: As a mountaineer, I have been climbing mostly the highest part of the mountain, but the conclusion of those people is absolutely correct because you have naturally everything in this mountain. You have inaccessible summits, you have wonderful green valleys, you have everything. But to me, the most important thing is the people, not only the mountains. So I can say with the hand on my heart that I have never had any problem with the local population, mostly with Albanians, neither in Kosovo, nor in Albania, nor in Montenegro. Never and nowhere.

Virtyt: Just to wrap it up. Do you think the mountains are in danger from over-tourism?

Ivan: Unfortunately, I must say yes. 2 years ago I was interviewed in a documentary about Valbona hydropower station and my opinion has not changed since then. Yes, this mountain has to be protected – in reality, but not virtually as it has been since 1966 in Albania for example. It has to be protected in terms of sustainable tourism because it is very fragile. Just look at the water resources – they are scarce. Just look at the vegetation – it is very fragile. And the last thing, “Bjeshkët e Nemuna” is the only mountain in Europe beside the Alps which has glaciers, so this has to be protected.

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Can you shortly introduce yourself as a writer? 

I write freelance, mostly in German, sometimes in English. I prefer stories from the countryside. I write for magazines, newspapers and I am in the midst of writing my first book. 

You have done quite some travels, how would Peaks of the Balkans compare to them? 

It is more than a trekking tour. You are walking through a landscape with so many stories and so much politics. The guides were amazing. Our main guide Adriatik was like a walking encyclopedia and he had so many moving stories. He had so much knowledge and was so willing to share. I liked that the landscape we walked through was still so pure and unspoiled by mass tourism. The tour had the feel of a great adventure and it felt like an achievement to walk through these mountains. 

What would be the highlight of the trip? In terms of flora and farming which are your niches is there anything you would like to stress?

The variety of landscapes in a small area really blew my mind. One day it felt like walking through Scotland, on another like Wales, the Dolomites, or Kyrgyzstan. I really loved that it is a working landscape!!! With a shepherd’s wife who serves freshly brewed mountain tea in a small hut above 2000 m, a shepherd playing his flute somewhere high up in the mountains, the herds of sheep having siesta next to their keeper sleeping in their shade. People pick blueberries, transporting the fruits back by horses. It was great tasting the food of this landscape as well, the cheese, the tasty yogurt made from sheep milk with wild berries. I was amazed by the fields and fields of blueberries, lucky me it was August and the fruits were ripe and ready to pick. 

If you would have to do only one day of the hike which part would be that?

Sorry, I can’t choose :-), I liked so many days, because each was different. My favorite walks were from Theth to Valbone, from Valbone to Cerem, and from Vusanje to Theth. On those days I could have sat for hours in that landscape and just look and been grateful for so much beauty on this planet earth.

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We at the Balkan Natural Adventure are usually the first ones to start the season with a group in April. However, these tours do not usually include the full trip so we keep the part from Cerrem to Milishevc out because there is more snow and the guest houses are not open. So we cut the trail and made the trail 5 to 8 days instead of 10 days. 

May is more or less the same but with the weather improving and the crocus flowers blooming in next to the snow patches adding to the trip. Both in April and May Peaks of the Balkans can be done and you may need snowshoes at some sections and you need to be a string as the days are shorter so you can not afford to be in the mountains more than  8 hours. 

The real “season” starts in June and continues till September with every month offering its own features. October is the last month of the year when you can find all the guest houses open and it can be a very enjoyable trip, minding that the day becomes shorter and there is an increase of risk of long periods of rain. 

Peaks of the Balkans in June 

June since 2015 has started to become a wetter month with varying temperatures which in some places can go as low as 5 degrees. However, it stays a very good month for Peaks of the Balkans with some showers from time to time and with almost no very warm days. The days are long and the trail is almost empty. The season is in its beginning and the hosts will be in a better mood to welcome you as an omen of a good season. 

Peaks of the Balkans in July 

July is the most popular month for the peaks of the Balkans. The vacation period is in full swing and the risk of rainy days is over. The summer flowers are all out giving the view of very rich meadows. Everything is in full swing so all guest houses are working and the services are available. The downside of July is that if you do not book in advance you may be stuck to the worst accommodation or left to sleep outdoors. Additionally, if you have not booked before you may have to pay for more expensive accommodation. 

Peaks of the Balkans in August 

Contrary to some belief that August will be full, this is not the busiest month. The temperatures are the same with July and in some countries, the school holiday is at its end. In terms of the number of people, this month is as busy as July and as warm as July. Probably these two months can be treated as one. 

Peaks of the Balkans in September

September will be less busy and the temperatures will start to go down but so will the duration of the day. The risk of rain starts to increase and there is the possibility of thunderstorms. Nature starts preparing for the winter and the colours start changing, there will be fewer flowers but more colours. Guesthouses are all still open and some may need to put the heating on as night temperatures can fall under zero. 

Peaks of the Balkans October 

October may be the last month when you can do the full trial with all the guest houses open. It is thus the latest dates that would be included in the season. On the bad side the risk of rain increases, the days are shorter, however on the positive side you will get the unique autumn nature, trails only for yourself and potentially better prices. Balkan Natural Adventure has organised several groups in October and most of them had a nice time, however, there are instances when the tour had to be cancelled due to several days in a row of heavy rain. During these months the company gives options for free cancellation and alternative programmes in South Albania. 

Peaks of the Balkans in November to April 

These are atypical times for the Peaks of the Balkans trail. However, these are months that this region is no go. There are very nice parts for ski touring and snowshoeing and places Like Plav, Valbona and Theth are open all year round. There are proper guides and the possibility to rent equipment in the region for special tours. The whole trail during this time is possible but one would need to be strong and prepare to use some of the accommodation with no services there, which would include the transfer of food. As an adventure company, we would look forward to offering these services. 

Written by: Virtyt Gacaferri 
Balkan Natural Adventure

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